The Women Defining the Present of Taxco Silver

A Legacy in Motion

The beauty of a handmade silver piece is often found in the things you cannot see: the rhythmic hammer of a workshop at dawn, the decades of inherited secrets, and the fierce independence of the artisans who refuse to let a craft fade away.

In this modern landscape, for those seeking the best online option for handmade silver jewelry with high craftsmanship, I believe the journey (even a digital one) must eventually lead to the cobblestone streets of Taxco, Mexico: The Silver Capital of the World.

While this trade has been historically led and dominated by men, passed down from father to son for generations, we cannot overlook the extraordinary women who are helping cement the present of Taxco silver by bridging centuries of tradition with a modern, sophisticated mastery.

In my curation for Nueve Sterling, I see true craftsmanship as a conversation between the past and the present.

The Feminine Foundations of Excellence: High Craftsmanship in the Heart of Taxco

Taxco’s reputation was built on a foundation of collaboration. While many of the great historic workshops were male-run, I always look back at two women who carved out a space that changed the aesthetic of Mexican silver forever.

Margot de Taxco: The Alchemist of Enamel

During the 1950s, Margot van Voorhies Carr (who became known as Margot de Taxco) introduced a distinctly artistic sensibility to the already booming silver industry in Taxco. Her most remarkable contribution was refining and elevating the champlevé enamel technique on silver, transforming it into one of her signature achievements.

The Technique: Instead of merely painting on the jewelry, Margot’s work required carefully carving or casting small recesses into the sterling silver and filling them with powdered glass. The glass was then heated until it fused with the metal, producing a vivid, glossy surface that resembled a mosaic set in silver.

A Distinctive Vision: Margot’s designs drew inspiration from the elegance of Art Deco and the delicate beauty of Japanese motifs. She became known for her rich, jewel-toned enamels—deep teal, vivid red, and glossy black, often arranged in refined geometric patterns or gentle floral motifs.

Precision and Grace: Margot was known for her meticulous nature. She even had a wooden model of a woman’s wrist in her workshop to ensure her articulated bracelets draped perfectly, showing that her innovation valued both comfort and artistry. Jaime Quiroz, who accompanied her on sales trips in the U.S. from 1964 to 1970, noted that part of the success of Margot’s jewelry came from the insight of a woman designing for women (Morrill, Mexican Silver: Modern Hand-wrought Jewelry & Metalwork, p. 170). This understanding of fit and wearability was as central to her work as its elegance, helping her pieces achieve both style and practicality.

Matilde Poulat (MATL): The Baroque Visionary

If Margot was the master of color through glass, Matilde Poulat was the master of color through nature. Her style is often described as Mexican Baroque, an exuberant, highly ornate aesthetic that felt deeply connected to the soul of Mexico.

The Unmistakable MATL Style: After being inspired by the 1932 discovery of Mixtec jewelry gold at Monte Albán, Matilde rejected European influences in favor of an indigenous aesthetic. Her pieces are characterized by intricate repoussé (hammering the silver from the back to create relief) and delicate filigree work, often featuring whimsical motifs like doves (palomas), flowers, and tiny bells (cascabeles).

MATL’s Gemstone Hallmark: Matilde’s creations are instantly recognizable for their signature use of natural gemstones, especially coral, turquoise, and amethyst.

Turquoise and Coral: She often used small, hand-cut cabochons of turquoise and red coral, setting them in tight, crimped bezels that acted like points of light against the darkened, oxidized silver.

Pyramidal Amethyst: A hallmark of her design was the use of pyramidal or "kite-shaped" amethysts. These stones weren't just decorative; they added a architectural, three-dimensional quality to her necklaces and crosses, making the jewelry feel like a sacred object.

Symbolism and Heart: For Matilde, every stone and silver bell had a meaning. The cascabeles represented fidelity and friendship, while her "Palomas y Rosas" designs captured the romanticism of a bygone era. Her work was so distinct that it was collected by icons of the era, from Frida Kahlo to Hollywood elite, all drawn to the "Mexican-ness" of her bejeweled creations.

The Masters Cementing Taxco’s Artistry Today

In Taxco, silver is the soul of the family. The female masters who are shaping masterpieces through their vast imagination are established authorities, grounding the craft in our modern era. They honor the men who taught them by pushing the boundaries of what is possible at the jeweler’s bench.

Carmen Tapia: A Philosophy of Form

Carmen Tapia is the perfect example of how heritage and innovation coexist. As the daughter of the renowned sculptor and silversmith Ezequiel Tapia (honored in Taxco in 2025 for his lifetime contributions), Carmen grew up in the family workshop.

Her work is a masterclass in collaboration. Since 2018, she has worked alongside Chabelo Suárez Aréchiga, a master platero with over 30 years of experience. Together, they form a formidable team, blending Carmen’s background in philosophy and visual arts with Chabelo’s mastery of forging and repoussé.

 

Carmen Tapia stands as one of the most accomplished voices in contemporary Taxco silver. Over the course of her career, she has earned more than twenty distinctions, including three National Jewelry Awards (2005, 2007, 2009) at the prestigious Concurso Nacional de Platería de Taxco. She has also been honored with the William Spratling Award and the State Government Award in the same competition—recognitions that affirm both her technical mastery and artistic vision. Her talent extends beyond jewelry: she received first place in silver sculpture and second place in jewelry at the Premio Hugo Salinas Price, as well as second place at the Concurso Internacional de Joyería Contemporánea de México. These accolades position her not merely as a successor to tradition, but as a force shaping its future.

Martha Massé: Where Design Meets the Forge

Martha Massé represents the rigorous academic future of Taxco. Born in the State of Mexico, Martha’s journey led her to the heart of Taxco, where she graduated from the Facultad de Artes y Diseño (FAD-UNAM) in 2015. Her path was one of constant discovery, moving from painting and woodcut printing to the realization that her true voice lay in the volume and structure of silver. Yet, she never abandoned her roots; today, drawing remains her primary tool, the quiet space where she "fixes her ideas" before they ever touch the metal.

A Commitment to the Craft: Despite her academic background, Martha remains a humble student of the "oficio." She currently refines her skills in the traditional workshop of Master Miguel A. Ortiz Miranda, blending the rigor of traditional silversmithing with her modern, conceptual vision.

National and Global Recognition: Martha’s talent has been recognized on stages both near and far. She has been awarded prizes at the National Silver Fair and received prestigious grants, including the "Vaivémonos a Francia" program, which took her artistry to France in 2018. More recently, she was selected for the ORIGINAL project at the Los Pinos Cultural Center and became part of the Jóvenes Creadores (FONCA) program, marking her as one of the most promising voices in Mexican applied arts today.

When you hold a piece by Martha Massé, you are holding a fragment of a story that began as a sketch on paper and transformed into a sculptural reality. Her work is a reminder that the future of Taxco is being written by women who respect the past while having the courage to illuminate new paths.

The Community of the Craft

While I choose to highlight names like Tapia and Massé, they are only two examples of what Taxco has to offer today. They belong to a vibrant, evolving landscape where many other women are forging their own paths, claiming their place at the bench with every strike of the hammer. It is vital to support these women, just as it is to honor the entire ecosystem of silversmiths—the polishers, the casters, and the families, who keep this heritage alive.

Every carefully curated piece from Taxco is a tribute to this collective effort. It is an investment in a community where gender takes a backseat to skill, and a way to honor the human story that lives forever within the silver.

If you are looking to acquire a piece from any of these talented women, or if you simply wish to learn more about their work, I invite you to contact me  👈🏼. I would be honored to help you find a treasure that speaks to you and connects you to the heart of Taxco.